GOT QUESTIONS? Anyone trying to grow something in an unforgiving, short season environment like ours, be it Trees, Shrubs, Flowers, Grass, is going to have questions at some point in the growing cycle. Following are some pertinent Questions and Answers that may help. 

Q: HOW do you know when we will have our last frost?

A: Watch the weather! Odds are it will be between June 15 and June 25 as it has been for the last 23 years (since we’ve been here.) The best way to read the weather is watch for the cold fronts and cover your tender plants with frost cloth for up to 4 nights following one. When in doubt, COVER.

  Try to plant hardier, hardened off varieties like Pansy, Viola, Snapdragon, Stock, selected Proven Winners®, Perennials, Trees and Shrubs earlier and more tender varieties later. 

Q: When should I start watering with my Sprinklers?

A: Not today. . . it is okay to get your sprinkler system turned on and tuned up for the season in April/May but. . . you should NOT begin watering until late May or even early June depending on Mother Nature and your soil. The longer you can wait, the deeper your roots will grow, following the water table as it goes down. 

Park City has very clay-like, heavy soil (always exceptions, know your own yard!). If you don’t let your soil dry out between watering, your roots suffocate and rot for lack of drainage. The symptoms are similar to plants that are dry so many people tend to over-water. DIG down with a shovel and use a moisture meter to determine how wet/dry your soil is, you will be surprised.

  Gypsum is a granular mineral that helps break down clay. Foliar Friend® is a liquid soil penetrant that creates ‘air’ pockets (like a liquid gypsum). It helps the plants take in nutrients more efficiently and allows the roots to ‘breathe’.

Q: WHEN should I fertilize?

A: Now! Trees and Shrubs- one time in the Spring and two more times throughout the growing season. Roots are actively growing before the tree buds out in Spring and still growing in Fall after they have defoliated.

Perennials - one time in Spring; again in late summer/fall.

Lawn - once in Spring; once in Summer; once in fall.

Many homeowners neglect to fertilize. If you want to see some active growth (especially above 6,000 feet), try putting your yard on a fertilizing schedule for a couple of years. You may be amazed at how much growth you can coax out of a plant.

  Root Starter®/Root Stimulator on new plants -1-2 seasons

*Milorganite® - Organic, non-burning, all-purpose fertilizer for Trees, Shrubs, Flowers and Lawn - good for the environment, stays in the soil and out of the watershed.

*Compost - for flower beds and around trees and shrubs. Make sure it is not ‘Hot’.

*16*16*8 - well balanced chemical fertilizer if you have a large area and need more economical coverage.

*Be careful to avoid chemical urea (30-0-0). It is a burning nitrogen - very inexpensive but not environmentally friendly and can cause damage to lawns and plants when not used carefully. 

  Fertilize in conjunction with Gypsum and Foliar Friend®, Soil Sulfur® and/or Copperas® and/or Soil Acidifier® will help change the texture and pH of your soil and make more ‘growable’ conditions.  

Q: WHEN is the best time to sow Wildflower Seed?

A: Don’t be in a big hurry! It is more important to prepare your planting area before sowing the seed. (See tip below)

The combination of heat and water will make seed germinate. If Spring and Summer temperatures are low, it will take longer to germinate - PATIENCE!

 Annual Seed planted in Fall or before June 5^th should be in bloom by late June or July. Some Perennials may show foliage the first growing season but will usually not bloom until the 2^nd year. This is why it is a good idea use a mix of both. 

Fall and Early Spring (in between snowstorms) are the best times to plant seed in areas that receive less water. *Please note, the more consistent water supply you can provide during the first growing season, the better your plants will adapt to drier conditions later.

If you are able to irrigate, you can plant seed throughout the growing season. This will give your perennials a jumpstart. Most annuals planted after June 10^th will probably not have time to bloom. You still need them because they will germinate quickly and provide valuable shade and take up space where weed seed can propagate.

It is a fun idea to add more annual seed to Wildflower Patches in subsequent seasons to ensure the vibrant colors of Poppy, Bachelor Button, Cosmos, Plains Coreopsis, etc. Do this in Late Fall and/or Spring. 

  Get rid of existing weeds and unwanted vegetation first! Take the month of May to battle them (even the whole season if necessary) and start with a fresh slate. The weeds and grass will come anyway so, the cleaner the area is when you seed your Wildflowers, the more successful your efforts will be. 

Q: After winter, my Spruce Trees look stressed - browning, thinning needles, dying tops, etc. What can I do to ‘SAVE’ them?

A: In spite of its apparent shortcomings, the Colorado Spruce is still the best Evergreen to establish for higher elevations. There are several ways to alleviate winter stress on your Spruce:

1. Spray  Wilt-pruf® on the needles in Fall to avoid the ‘south-side burn’ and needle desiccation. Mark your calendar NOW.

2.Plant in groupings with other Trees and Shrubs for protection! Add more Spruce, Aspen, Cottonless Cottonwoods, Siberian Pea Shrub , Serviceberry or other large shrubs to your Spruce plantings. It will help them grow faster and block some of the wind that gives them such a hard time.

3.Fertilize. Early spring with Milorganite® and a couple of times throughout the summer.

4.Use Chelated Iron to combat Iron deficiency and Chlorosis (yellowing needles).

5. Do NOT Over-water! Symptoms of over-watering include yellowing needles and defoliation. Check your soil - what appears dry is probably not.

Q: Can I convert my existing Sprinkler System to Drip Irrigation?